The 53 of us spent the last weekend touring 4 battlefield sites here in the KwaZulu-Natal province. We packed for an overnight trip, lunches included, and loaded up a chartered bus that would be driving us around for about 5 hours on Friday, and about 6 hours on Saturday. The rumor was that this is the same chartered bus that the Brazilian national soccer team will be using while they are here for the world cup this June. Who knows how true this was, but I didn't mind telling myself I was sitting in the same seat as Ronaldinho or Kaka. At 7 AM on Friday morning we loaded up the super-comfortable bus with our tour guide, Tony Jones - a 75 year old South African gentleman who knew the history of South Africa like the back of his hand. His sprite, old man sense of humor and occasional grumpiness would make for an interesting weekend.
I found my seat at the rear of the bus, next to the ice maker and bathroom. About half an hour into the drive, my body reminded that I get really car sick on buses - especially sitting in the back. Not to get too graphic, but lets just say I spent a little extra time in Ronaldinho's bathroom during the first drive on Friday. Despite the barfy bus ride, I enjoyed checking out the boundless grasslands of KZN though our windows, and taking in the vast openness of South Africa. After a few hours' drive, we arrived at our first battlefield: Spion Kop. This battle took place in the Anglo-Boer War around 1900, where the British invaded and annexed the Afrikaans-speaking, independent Boer republics. The fighting took place on Spion Kop, Dutch for Spy Hill, a strategic lookout point in the Natal countryside. We walked the path to the top of the hill from the bottom where our bus was parked. It was hard for me to imagine having to run up this hill with a gun, and bullets flying all around me. The battle has a special legacy in South African history, as the un-uniformed Boers beat back a much larger force of British Imperial regulars. The top of the hill had been converted into a mass grave for all of the fallen. It was definitely a humbling place to stand.
Our second battlefield on Friday was the Battle of Blood River. Also located in KZN, this battle was fought between the Voortrekker Boers and Zulus in the mid 19th century. After failed negotiations, including a brutal betrayal of the Boers by the Zulus, a force of about 500 Voortrekkers moved into Zululand. They were soon met by a force of about 10,000 armed Zulus. Incredibly, the Boers were able to beat back the massive Zulu force, killing about 3000 - and suffering only 3 wounded. The Boers accomplished this amazing victory by forming a laager (D-shaped circle) with their covered wagons. The deeply religious Boers made a vow to God stating that if they emerged victorious, they would forever dedicate the day as a day of remembrance. The defensively minded Boers managed a crushing victory over the hoard of Zulus, and effectively established their presence in Zululand. The monument at the site included a small museum, as well as a life size replica of the laager made by the Voortrekkers. The monument was humbling ground to walk on. It was bewildering to imagine what the Voortrekkers and Zulus faced on the day of the battle. To this day December 16 is marked by a day of remembrance by the Afrikaners, although since the end of Apartheid in 1994, the Day of the Vow has since been recognized as the Day of Reconciliation.
We stayed overnight in the small town of Dundee, in the northeast countryside of KZN, at the picturesque Royal Inn. This place was the definition of a British bed and breakfast - complete with a rustic lounge filled with British war collectibles, a cozy pub room, banquet hall, courtyard and library. We were spoiled with a delicious dinner, and capped off the night with a Q & A session with Reg, our head coordinator. We asked all kinds of questions, with topics ranging from South African history to theology. Every word that comes out of Reg's mouth is full of wisdom, compassion and intelligence. He's definitely the manifest of who I want to be when I grow up.
We awoke to yet another delicious South African breakfast, and were on our way to the final two battlefields of our weekend. Our first destination was the site for the Battle of Isandlwana, fought in the Anglo-Zulu War. Perhaps the most famous battle of the war, a British force of about 1500 was defeated by a Zulu army armed with spears and cowhide shields. Led by a prideful Victorian gentleman, the British ignored the tactics of the Voortrekkers and faced the Zulu force head on, and experienced total defeat. It was a pretty incredible story to hear, especially from Tony, who couldn't have been more passionate in his description of the battle.
Our final battlefield tour was about 10 minutes down the road from Isandlwana at Rorke's Drift. This battle took place immediately after the devastation at Isandlwana when the Zulus crossed the Buffalo River into British territory, thirsty for more victory. It was not to be for the Zulus, as a resilient outnumbered British defense held up against a Zulu onslaught. The British victory marked a turning point in the Anglo-Zulu War, as the aggressive British eventually conquered Zululand. Each battlefield had its own unique story of bravery and valor, and each contributed to overall picture of South African history. This land may be stained with blood, but the incredible history that forms the foundation of South Africa today makes this a country with a powerful story to learn from. Next: I'll begin my community engagement course with a few lectures, and eventually start my service at Walk in the Light, an organization that operates in one of the townships in Pietermaritzburg.
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