Lesotho

I'm only 19 years old, but I'm beginning to understand that some moments in life stand out above the rest. Some experiences, some places you visit will stay with you in your heart and mind for a long time. For me, Lesotho is that place. While I only spent about 1.5 days in the Basotho highlands from last Thursday to Friday, my love for Lesotho and its people could not be any higher. Completely landlocked and surrounded by South Africa, I expected Lesotho to be just another part of South Africa that just happened to be a different country. But what I actually experienced was something totally unlike my expectations.

I had the opportunity to go to Lesotho (pronounced Le-soo-too), the tiny mountain kingdom in the middle of South Africa, for a field trip with my psychology class. Our goal as a group was to study the Basotho people that have lived in the Lesotho highlands for generations, raising cattle and surviving some of Africa's harshest winters. We were to do this by driving up the only mountain pass that accessed Lesotho from this part of S.A, spending the day on horseback through the highlands, and meeting with the local Basotho people in their villages to get a glimpse of how they live. Of the 53 total APU students here in South Africa, only 10 others were in my psychology class, so I felt pretty fortunate to be able to go on the field trip.

After driving about 2 hours to a border town on the South African side, we loaded up our packs and sleeping bags onto 2 tour guide vehicles that were going to take us up Sani Pass and into Lesotho. Despite being totally surrounded by South Africa, Lesotho is still a completely independent country, so we made sure we brought our passports in order to cross the border. So there we were, 11 American college students sitting in the bed of a Land Rover truck, ready to experience Lesotho.

The drive up Sani Pass was out of this world. Like I said before, we sat in the back of a truck, while our driver cruised down the dirt road toward the bottom of the pass. Once the road started to get rocky, and the curves became sharper, we began to gain elevation. Sani Pass is 1.5 lane dirt road (an improvement from the previous .5 lane road) that provides access between KwaZulu-Natal province and Lesotho. The pass winds up the side of a stunning valley, full of granite cliffs and steep green hills. As we slowly transitioned from farmland into a mountain environment, I began to see another side of Africa I hadn't seen before. Far from the savannas of the game reserves, the landscape here rose fiercely toward the sky, as the cliffs seem to taunt anyone who passed by with their extreme stature. The clouds crept closer and closer to the ground, until they blanketed the tips of the bright green hills with chilling effectiveness. Looking back toward the bottom of the pass, the countryside looked like a folded green blanket covered in brilliantly dark gray patches. We meandered to the top until we finally arrived at the modest Lesotho border post. With relative ease, our passports were stamped and we were ready to begin our Lesotho horseback adventure.

Sani Top Chalet marks the top of Sani Pass, and is the highest pub in all of Africa in terms of elevation (around 9500 feet). The rustic outpost sits literally on the edge of Lesotho, majestically overlooking the pass. We were greeted by our Basotho guides with horses ready for the 11 of us, and we were soon on our way toward Thabana Ntlenyana, southern Africa's highest point. The 6 hour ride would take us through the highlands and pastures of the Basotho, and climb toward the Thabana Ntlenyana. My horse was a specially-bred Basotho mountain horse - short but very strong. I hopped on the saddle and were soon on our way, with our guides Martin and James, who both spoke about as much English and I speak Sesotho. My horse was incredibly obedient and responsive, so I was able to pretty much put on cruise control and take in the scenery around me. I felt like I was well matched with my horse, as it was perpetually grabbing a bite to eat for almost the entire trip.

The first leg of our journey took us through a vast, wide-open valley. A small stream flowed about 2 kilometers away from us as we trekked on a small path wrapping around the side of the valley on a hillside. It was truly incredible to look around and see absolutely nothing but green fields, rolling hills, and tiny yellow flowers. It was frustrating because no picture I took could quite capture the beauty and solitude of the landscape. The vastness, greenness, and clearness of the land were too much for one picture to contain. We passed a few isolated Basotho shepherds tending their flocks, and we were generally greeted with a shy smile and an occasional wave. After a quick lunch break about 3 hours into our ride, we began our climb toward Thabana Ntlenyana.

Our unbelievably resilient horses made the climb a slow but steady process. Unfortunately, due to a late start and some sketchy weather, we had to limit our journey to an overlook of the mountain, as we did not have enough time to summit and get back before dark. At the overlook, our group ran into several Basotho shepherd boys, who shyly approached us at first, but were soon laughing with (more likely, at) us. Due to the extreme climate of the Lesotho highlands, the Basotho people are practically dressed in warm clothing. Each shepherd was dressed in what looked like a thick wool blanket, and a cloak that covered their entire body. The closest reference I can come up with is the Sand People from Star Wars. After a few incredible minutes of intercultural communication, we were on our way back down the, hoping to make it back to the chalet before rainfall or darkness. In turned out that we didn't need to rush, so the ride back allowed even more time for taking in the beauty of Lesotho. We even had time for a few gallop sessions through some grass fields. I felt pretty blessed for having the opportunity to gallop on a horse through an African meadow. If you ever get the opportunity to do it, I highly recommend it.

We arrived back at the pub, about 6 hours after we left in the late morning, and had just enough time to get cleaned up and moved into our lodge before dinner. Our accommodations were humble but cozy, as we got to experience a night without electricity. Dinner at Sani Top Chalet was fantastic. The cozy mountain pub provided a great atmosphere for eating (my new favorite) curry. We sat by the fire and digested the day.

The next morning, we enjoyed another cozy meal at the pub before heading out to meet with a Basotho guide in the local village. Our guide Edwin explained how life in the village works, and how the Basotho cope with their harsh natural environment. The Basotho are a mountain people through and through. They build their housing out of mud and bricks, with a thick thatch roof that provides a great amount of insulation for the Lesotho winters. Even in February, summer, temperatures can dip to near freezing. They either raise all of their food, or buy it from a the nearest town about 50 kilometers away. If a family doesn't make a lot of money, the children become shepherds after primary school. Life for the Basotho is about subsistence and survival, but they do not live bitterly or angrily. We were invited into a house to watch 3 Basotho women perform a dance and song for us, and we were greeted with smiles and waves from the local kids. While they may still have some things to learn about managing pastureland, I feel like the Basotho can teach me way more about life than anyone could teach them about agriculture.

The Lesotho trip was powerful, and on so many levels. Not only did I get to experience one of the most pristine landscapes in the world, but I was able to interact with and learn from a people group with a completely different lifestyle form my own. Lesotho is a special place, where I found a sense of spiritual and mental peace that I haven't experienced anywhere else. I think that you can see and hear God in places where it is quietest, where you can experience His presence free from human influence or distraction. For me, this place is Lesotho. The harsh green hills and cliffs of the Basotho highlands demand a constant peace, that penetrates the mind and spirit in a way that cleanses the soul at its deepest point. I am already looking forward to my return to the mountain kingdom of southern Africa.